The Party Crashers

 Our first day in Mandraki began at 4:30 when our ferry arrived in port. After a quick nap, we set off to explore the town, and get our bearings. We had a lovely lunch consisting of garlic-almond spread on bread followed by island goat in tomato sauce and beetroot salad. Really quite delicious.

After a long day, we had planned to stay in for a quiet evening. That is until I heard music, live music, live Greek music. It was like I was hearing the Sirens of mythical Ancient Greece calling. I had to investigate. After some time we located the source, an inner courtyard with a large outdoor patio restaurant, packed with locals. The entrance to the restaurant, Apololi Kori, was from street level into a basement by the kitchen. There were a couple of stools by the steps leading to the patio, and we kindly asked if we could simply order a carafe of wine and listen to the music. Very well.

Now I knew it was simply a matter of biding our time while enjoying the music till we were in. Within a short period of time, the owner, no doubt taking pity on us, escorted us to a spot on a low stone wall in the patio where we could sit and better appreciate the music. As often happens in these situations, one thing leads to another. A nearby table of 3 couples asked us to join them. Two chairs appear, and we join the party. My new friend Dimitrious has our carafe refilled, and when I later try to reciprocate by having the table carafe refilled, he explains that it would be inappropriate as we are his guests. At some point our Airbnb host Sophia spots us and has another carafe sent to our table. So much for a quiet restful evening.

All the while the music continues, for hours with no break. Everyone, young and old, is singing the old Greek songs all with great passion. As the emotional energy builds, certain instrumentals seem to encourage dancing. Real Greek dancing. Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek dancing. This is the Greece I was looking for!

I was a respectful party crasher and resisted filming except for this short clip:

https://youtu.be/kwaDVw7u-AI

P.S.

After a rather late night, I was looking forward to a good long Sunday morning sleep-in. That is until the Greek Orthodox Sunday morning service was broadcast via loudspeakers from the bell tower. Simply no rest for the wicked!