Leaving Luang Prabang, we set out on a 2 day river journey up the Mekong River to the Lao/Thai border town of Huay Xai. Now, I would like to point out that we were not embarking on a luxury river cruise, but rather an "experience". These long narrow "Slow Boats" are equipped with repurposed bus/train seats, not fixed to the deck, and offered the bare minimum in comfort for each of our 8 to 9 hour travel days.
The Mekong is a swift running muddy river with occasional stretches of rapid water through several narrow gaps. Depending on the season the river can contain wide shallow areas or rise and expand the banks during the rainy season. The Captain, without the aid of any detectable channel markers made his way upstream relying on his local knowledge and ability to read the river.
Along the route our boat made several unscheduled quick stops to deposit local Lao passengers with their parcels and luggage, either by nudging the bow into a sandy bank, or sidling up to a rocky outcropping. And one delivery involved offloading goods to a little long tail boat which pulled up alongside for the transfer.
After the first day we docked, well there really was no dock, just the bank, at the riverside village of Pak Beng. This village has one sole purpose, to provide overnight lodging for weary passengers. After a couple of bottles of BeerLao and a tasty Chicken Tikka Masala, we retired to our rustic reed bungalow. Our bed, complete with mosquito netting, offered a well earned restful sleep.
On our second day we boarded a larger boat which offered a bit more space between the same tired train seats. We settled in to chat with new friends and once again enjoy the scenery and observe life along the river.
While there were other overland travel options available for reaching the Thai border station, none offered the same sense of adventure, romance or sheer delight as our river journey up the mighty Mekong.
You two really are adventurous souls!
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