Our first day in Chiang Rai, Thailand, began like most first days in a new destination, with a walk. This has proven to be the best way of orienting ourselves in our new surroundings.
During our walk, I heard loud festive music and what appeared to be a parade rounding the corner and moving in our direction. The procession led with a banner, undecipherable to me, and followed with people carrying offerings, all ahead of several pickup trucks and open buses. The vehicles carried young boys, heads shaved, all dressed in white and holding lotus buds. As it happened the entire group turned into the temple directly behind us (Wat Phra Kaew, the temple of the Emerald Buddha). Well, there was nothing else to do but follow and join in the proceedings.
We followed the entourage to a large assembly hall at the far end of the large temple complex. As the boys lined up on the steps of the hall I was approached by a man, and after a brief conversation, he declared himself our host and escorted us into the hall. We were welcomed in and encouraged to sit with the attendees to observe the novice monk ordination ceremony.
Today, these young boys were becoming samanera or novice monks, a great honor which brings merit for their entire family and this event was cause for a great celebration. These young monks will now enter monastic life, begin their education and take vows to follow the ten precepts (a moral code similar to the eightfold path which all Buddhists endeavor to uphold).
As the ceremony unfolded, we observed the boys seated in the center of the room encircled and connected in a web of twine during ritual chants and readings.
During the proceedings we were approached by Mam, a woman with clear standing at the temple, who again welcomed us and encouraged our participation. She introduced us to a young novice, an orphan, that she had sponsored and instructed us to tie a string around his wrist, a gesture wishing him good luck and success on his new path.
The culmination of the ceremony is the presentation of a new orange robe to each of the new novice monks. As the presentation was finishing, Mam ushered us forward so that we could present a novice with his new robe. It was an honor and privilege to participate in this joyous sacred ritual.
We entered the ceremony as welcomed well wishers and left feeling like special guests. The truth of the matter is that it is with gratitude for the generosity of our many hosts that we experienced one of the most important ceremonies in the Thai Buddhist tradition.
Procession of young boys, family, friends and well wishers entering the Wat Phra Kaew,for the novice monk ordination ceremony. Video:
Your stories are very moving
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